I'd heard that the 3-4 hour journey could be rough, but it wasn't too bad for me. I enjoyed the scenery. Lots of rice paddies, cows, water buffalo, and stilt houses, with the mountains in the background. Laos is kind of strange, especially on the outskirts of Vientiane, in that there will be these huge, gaudy, new colonial style houses right next to a hut.
The countryside started to get really nice, and then as we approached Vang Vieng, just gorgeous with the karst mountains. Vang Vieng is one of those places that is so much better in person than in any picture.
Vang Vieng has kind of a crazy story. It became a backpacker stop between Vientiane and Luang Prabang due to the beautiful scenery. Soon enough, it became a party place. Foreigners went tubing and drank on the river. They walked through the town in their bikinis (this is a very modest culture). There started to be a lot of drugs being used. There were ropes to swing into the river that were very dangerous, and foreigners started to die. Kids in Vang Vieng started to drink and do drugs.
Overnight, the government shut down most of the bars and guesthouses that were full of drugs in 2012. Vang Vieng is recasting itself as a place for outdoor lovers, with hiking, kayaking, caving, tubing, waterfalls, etc. There are more boutique hotels on the river.
I arrived and loved the landscape. The town itself is very small. I checked out some hotels and decided to treat myself, since it was one night, to the 5-star hotel, the Riverside Boutique. I snagged their last room. It is beautiful. My room was Hmong themed, with a private patio. The gorgeous pool overlooks the karst mountains and the river.
By the time I arrived, it was afternoon. My main goal was to completely relax and enjoy the scenery. I got some spring rolls, checked into the hotel, and watched a quick monsoon rain from my patio while drinking tea. I had an afternoon cocktail at the hotel bar, with the best view, before walking around a little bit, including getting some pictures from a bridge over the river.
I ate dinner at Ban Sabai. There are bungalows there right on the river (looks nice if anyone is going to Vang Vieng!), and a restaurant that is a platform above the river and mountains with a picture perfect view. I watched the sunset as I ate my dinner and enjoyed a Beerlao. It was incredible.
I went swimming at night in the shadow of the karsts. The pool was the perfect temperature.
I got great sleep in the quiet hotel next to the river. The next morning, I made the most of hotel breakfast on the balcony of the hotel restaurant overlooking the river. I had bread, gourmet cheese, mango-papaya jam, an omelette, and lots of Lao coffee. The service at the Riverside Boutique is really top-notch.
I went for another swim and sat outside and relaxed until lunchtime, when I checked out of the hotel. I had an hour until the bus to Vientiane, perfect for lunch at the hotel restaurant. I got minced pork, fried and then put on sticks of lemongrass (basically fancy hot dogs). Soooo good.
The ride back to Vientiane was a little rougher. I think perhaps the bus was a bit older.
Overall, it was a super relaxing and lovely trip. I definitely recommend going if you get the chance, even just for a night!
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