Friday, August 29, 2014

LPB/Vientiane (8/29)

Our crew woke up early in the morning. We were supposed to go on the book boat, which is part of the program I described in the previous entry, and go to a village and deliver books and play games. However, it had been pouring rain all night and into the morning, and the village was fairly flooded. Very disappointing, but what can you do?

I was fine relaxing at the hotel after breakfast, since I had to leave for the airport at noon. I flew back to Vientiane (30 minutes, the shortest flight ever) and went back to the Embassy to clean up the rest of my desk and say goodbye to the few people left in my office (everyone else was still in Luang Prabang).

Although I’d already said goodbye to Ken, Christina, Emily, and many of my friends, I was able to get together was some friends I have made here, such as the Fulbright researchers Melia and Pon, my boss Matt before he left for Bangkok, and Shana, a teacher I met who is at the National University. They were so nice. We ate Lao food at Makphet, which is a restaurant that trains street kids and helps give them training and jobs. It was really good.

Reflecting on my experience, I think it’s pretty impressive that I crammed so much in to only 7 weeks. I thought I might not get to come at all, so I am so glad I did. I really loved Laos and I truly enjoyed my job at the Embassy. It is really one of my favorite jobs and workplace environments. And now 4 flights and over 24 hours from now, I will be back in Phoenix and in the middle of school and a new full-time internship. Yes, I am crazy! I will miss Laos a lot.

Luang Prabang (8/28)


On Thursday, I woke up at 5:15 so that I could go see tak bat. This is the traditional alms giving that the people give to the monks. Tak bat happens all over Laos, but most people go to see it in Luang Prabang because it is such a beautiful place. I arrived and watched locals set up their stools and baskets of sticky rice.

The daily event has become touristy, and there are guidelines that are widely available to keep it respectful. One is that if you participate, you do it properly and get a basket of sticky rice prepared, wear modest clothes, and wear the sash that the locals wear. I did not participate but I saw a foreign woman participate and she was very respectful. Also, don’t be loud and avoid blocking the way of the monks as they walk, avoid flash with photos, etc.

I stayed near my hotel, and found it was not too overcrowded and very beautiful, peaceful, and meditative to watch. Monks can be little boys through old men, and some of the boys smiled back at me as they walked by.

I went back to sleep, and then woke back up to go get breakfast. The hotel restaurant is right on the river, and the view is truly incredible. Free breakfast includes made to order eggs and/or pancakes, fruit shakes, coffee, bread, etc. So good. And so peaceful to watch the river as you eat.

I had the morning open, so I headed to the Traditional Arts and Ethnic Cultural Center (TAEC). The US Embassy gave a grant for one of their exhibits on the Katu minority people. It’s a nice small center, and I talked with several of the people that worked there. My favorite part was the gift shop, I’ll admit. They have beautiful handicrafts, and 50% of the proceeds go back to the people that made them. They are not even that expensive, especially since they are very high quality handmade products.

I got to walk around town quite a bit and do some more shopping. I also went to the Luang Prabang Museum, which used to be the Royal Palace. You can’t take photos (or wear shoes) inside, but it was very interesting with some beautiful furniture and mosaic walls. There were several gifts from other countries, but one of them totally blew my mind. There was a huge painting of Huanguoshu Waterfalls, which is in Guizhou, the province I lived in when I was in China. Of all the gifts from China to be there! And I’ve actually seen the falls in person. Crazy.

I went to two locations of OckPopTok, which is a store with many handwoven items, many of which are modern takes on traditional Lao patterns. There were many lovely items, and I talked a lot to two workers at one of the stores, who knew Pam, my former boss, and spoke great English. They were so friendly.

By lunchtime, Wendy (the librarian from Bangkok), and several local staff from the Embassy had arrived. We reunited at a restaurant, where the local staff and I shared some great Lao food, including a delicious eggplant and minced pork dish I hadn’t tried before.

In the afternoon, Ken, Wendy and I gave presentations to some older students at the library, where we have an American Corner. I did College Life in the USA again, to a great talkative crowd of students. It was a lot of fun. After that, groups of kids put on a show for us. It included kids from very young to teens, doing traditional dances, hip hop dancing, singing, and a puppet show. It was very fun.

The Library in Luang Prabang, which is where all of this happened, is a great place. There is a program where tourists can buy books, spending $2 and up. The books are educational and usually English and Lao, with great illustrations. Tourists can buy books at the library or night market. Then, fairly frequently, the books are loaded up onto a boat, and taken to a village school. It’s an amazing program, and a great way for backpackers to help out very easily.

In the evening, Wendy, Ken, and I headed to L’Elephant, which is one of the most famous restaurants in Laos. The atmosphere was really nice and the food was great. I got a cucumber salad, delicious bread, and a cheesy pasta dish. Very classy and very delicious.

Once again, I shopped in the night market before heading back to the hotel. I bought a lot of stuff in Luang Prabang, since it was my last big chance to buy things before I left Laos. I got some really gorgeous and unique items that I am excited to bring home.

Luang Prabang (8/27)

Ken and I left for Luang Prabang yesterday, and a quick 45 minute flight later were here! We were greeted by a van with ice cold water and towelettes from our hotel. Luang Prabang is such a nice city, and has a very different vibe from Vientiane. It's much more pretty and much more relaxed (and Vientiane is fairly relaxed compared to most Asian cities).

We got to the hotel, and were immediately welcomed with juice and friendly staff who gave us maps and a nice overview of the city. I absolutely love the hotel. It think it is actually my favorite hotel ever. I got to my room. It's done in kind of a colonial style, with wood floors and lovely wooden furniture. There is a big comfy adjustable bed with colorful embroidered pillows, and best of all, you can see the river out the windowed doors, which lead a a private patio with a gorgeous view. It's all the best. Also a free minibar with water, soda, tea, Milo, coffee, etc. I love the touches like a desk with beautiful books in many languages about Luang Prabang and Laos.


Ken and I went to Phu Si, and we learned how out of shape I am, because like everything cool in Asia, it's up many stairs to get to the top. However, the view was definitely worth it in this case. And on the way down, there were some cool buddhas, and "Buddha's footprint"-basically a big hole. Also, we met some monks. Monks here tend to speak good English, and these monks were teenage boys, like many of my students in English class. They were very impressed with Ken's Lao.


We walked around a bit, and saw a temple. Luang Prabang is definitely known for gorgeous temples. Luang Prabang is a really nice city. Nice colonial and wood buildings, an easy city center, and two rivers flowing through. The riverfront here is much lovelier than in Vientiane. There are little cafes and restaurants with lights and lanterns all along both sides of the river.

We went out to eat with an American who runs the Luang Prabang Film Festival at a lovely garden restaurant. I checked out the famous Night Market, although it was closing down already since it was past 9 pm. The Night Market is more touristy than the Vientiane night market, although it has a few different items and some more variety in some ways. My favorite items are the paintings, the handmade paper, and of course the fabric, especially the embroidery and weaving.

I was exhausted and headed back to my lovely hotel.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Pizza Party and more! (8/25-8/27)

Monday I managed to book myself up all day. I taught my last English class in the morning, and then I needed to prepare for the back-to-school pizza party in the afternoon. My last event that I planned was a party for the students and teachers who have been doing the English classes at the Embassy.

It was a great success! We had lots of pizza, nice cookies, soda, and the Deputy Chief of Mission came and talked to the students. We played the game where you stick a post-it to a kid's head and they have to guess who/what they are. The kids didn't want to stop playing!

Tuesday, our regional information officer, who is a librarian for the Southeast Asian countries based out of the Embassy in Bangkok, came for a visit. I got to tag along and visit libraries with her. First I visited the National University Library. It is a large building. I was very impressed at how much they do having so little. Most of their books are donated, but everything is well-organized and they have lots of spaces for students to study.

We then visited the Vientiane public library. Once again, I was so impressed with what the have done with the space. About half of it is a children's space with little tables, picture books, and a reading area. The other half is for high school students, which is perfect since it's right next to Vientiane high school. Once again, they get little money and rely on donations. They even have a mobile library to do outreach in villages. However, sadly, their van is currently broken down. 

Tuesday night Matt, Christina, and I went to Christina's favorite restaurant in Vientiane, Les Caves des Chateaux. It was lovely! My favorite French restaurant so far. I had French onion soup (mmmm) and flaming prawns! We shared chocolate souffle and lemon vodka sorbet for dessert. So delicious. Truly a great meal with great friends. And my last meal with Christina, who has become such a good friend to me. But hopefully I will see her soon! She is doing training in DC in September, and hopefully she will get to come to the West Coast and visit me!!

Wednesday I helped Wendy set up a presentation for Lao students before heading back and cleaning and finishing everything up. I was headed to Luang Prabang that afternoon! (cliffhanger....for next entries)

Vang Vieng (8/23-8/24)

On my last weekend in Laos, I decided to head to Vang Vieng by myself. I decided to leave Saturday morning at 8 am. Of course, somehow my bus ticket didn't get booked so I left at 9. A driver took me to the large coach style bus, which slowly filled with backpackers and didn't leave until 10. Finally, we got on the road.



I'd heard that the 3-4 hour journey could be rough, but it wasn't too bad for me. I enjoyed the scenery. Lots of rice paddies, cows, water buffalo, and stilt houses, with the mountains in the background. Laos is kind of strange, especially on the outskirts of Vientiane, in that there will be these huge, gaudy, new colonial style houses right next to a hut. 

The countryside started to get really nice, and then as we approached Vang Vieng, just gorgeous with the karst mountains. Vang Vieng is one of those places that is so much better in person than in any picture. 

Vang Vieng has kind of a crazy story. It became a backpacker stop between Vientiane and Luang Prabang due to the beautiful scenery. Soon enough, it became a party place. Foreigners went tubing and drank on the river. They walked through the town in their bikinis (this is a very modest culture). There started to be a lot of drugs being used. There were ropes to swing into the river that were very dangerous, and foreigners started to die. Kids in Vang Vieng started to drink and do drugs. 

Overnight, the government shut down most of the bars and guesthouses that were full of drugs in 2012. Vang Vieng is recasting itself as a place for outdoor lovers, with hiking, kayaking, caving, tubing, waterfalls, etc. There are more boutique hotels on the river.

I arrived and loved the landscape. The town itself is very small. I checked out some hotels and decided to treat myself, since it was one night, to the 5-star hotel, the Riverside Boutique. I snagged their last room. It is beautiful. My room was Hmong themed, with a private patio. The gorgeous pool overlooks the karst mountains and the river. 

By the time I arrived, it was afternoon. My main goal was to completely relax and enjoy the scenery. I got some spring rolls, checked into the hotel, and watched a quick monsoon rain from my patio while drinking tea. I had an afternoon cocktail at the hotel bar, with the best view, before walking around a little bit, including getting some pictures from a bridge over the river. 


I ate dinner at Ban Sabai. There are bungalows there right on the river (looks nice if anyone is going to Vang Vieng!), and a restaurant that is a platform above the river and mountains with a picture perfect view. I watched the sunset as I ate my dinner and enjoyed a Beerlao. It was incredible.
I went swimming at night in the shadow of the karsts. The pool was the perfect temperature. 

I got great sleep in the quiet hotel next to the river. The next morning, I made the most of hotel breakfast on the balcony of the hotel restaurant overlooking the river. I had bread, gourmet cheese, mango-papaya jam, an omelette, and lots of Lao coffee. The service at the Riverside Boutique is really top-notch. 

I went for another swim and sat outside and relaxed until lunchtime, when I checked out of the hotel. I had an hour until the bus to Vientiane, perfect for lunch at the hotel restaurant. I got minced pork, fried and then put on sticks of lemongrass (basically fancy hot dogs). Soooo good. 

The ride back to Vientiane was a little rougher. I think perhaps the bus was a bit older. 

Overall, it was a super relaxing and lovely trip. I definitely recommend going if you get the chance, even just for a night!


Saturday, August 23, 2014

Second to Last Week

I had another great week that is making me really sad that I am leaving Laos so soon. After my Lao friend/coworker Christina brought me to the gym with her, I decided that since I was already dressed for it I should go down to the Mekong river front for aerobics. There are 2 groups that do aerobics, outside, right by the river. I love the river in the evening. People go to hang out, jog, bike, shop, and eat. I joined one of the groups and did some aerobic dancing (yes, there was some techno Enrique Iglesias). A dark cloud was approaching, and as we were facing the river, I watched it get closer and closer. Suddenly, there was a loud boom of thunder, and lots of people screamed and started running for shelter.

I had tons of great Indian food at a restaurant I ducked inside just before the downpour. The power went out briefly (really, not so different from monsoon season growing up in Phoenix), but went back on within a few minutes.

This week I also tried Pimenton, which is a Spanish (I think) steak house? I had an amazing perfectly cooked (medium) burger and some nice tapas.

I gave a fun presentation for Lao high school and college students about what college life is like in the USA, including dorm life and what it's like to live on campus. I ended up having around 60 students show up, and it was a lot of fun, especially towards the end when they began to ask questions.

I also gave a presentation on my internship, and what I have done while I've been here, at our weekly meeting with all of the political/econ/public diplomacy officers. The Ambassador is out of the country, so I gave it for the Deputy Chief of Mission. I really got to do a lot even though I was here a much shorter time than most interns. It turned out I couldn't hook up my PowerPoint so one of the officers held my printed out slides as I talked, which was pretty funny.



Christina had told me she and I were going to go to a final lunch at Kong View, a riverside restaurant. However, I ended up being surprised by a goodbye lunch with all of my coworkers. It was a wonderful suprise, and the surprises didn't end there. Later, Christina said she needed to go to Scandinavian Bakery to pick up a cake for a friend, so I went with her. She gave me the cake to hold, and I was shocked to see a cake with my face on it.



The funny part is that I was actually at Scandinavian Bakery when Matt ordered the cake and I had no idea. I happened to be sitting in the cafe, drinking a coffee and reading, when I heard Matt's voice. What a coincidence! He said he was ordering a cake and asked what a good flavor would be. I said chocolate, having no idea this was for me. He ordered in Lao, which I thought nothing of, since I assumed he just wanted to practice his Lao. And that was my cake.

Last night, Christina and I went to Spirit House, a bar next to the river, to watch the sunset. Matt and Melia ended up joining us. We also tried a Japanese place and a wine bar with live music, although at first the only seats open were literally next to the speakers, which was pretty unpleasant.

All in all it was so much fun, and I am amazed by how well my coworkers have gotten to know me. I really like my public diplomacy coworkers, both American and Lao, and they have done such a nice goodbye for me already.








Sunday, August 17, 2014

Boh Pennyang (don't worry or no worries)

Boh pennyang is the phrase that basically sums up the laidback Lao lifestyle.

Another great week of work and fun in Laos! I got an aromatherapy massage (much gentler than Lao/Thai massage) at Tangerine, a really nice, relaxing spa that is offering half-off all services, making it very cheap. I got to try some more food with my coworkers at lunch. I had a great red coconut curry at Amphone. I did some more shopping at Talat Sao and at the night market.  I tried Mexican food in Vientiane at Ban Gai with the Fulbright English Teaching Assistants. It wasn't bad for Tex Mex in Laos.

Friday was the Young Diplomats reception, which Emily and I planned and helped set up. It is for the less experienced, lower level diplomats to mingle and connect with one another. We had it at a Bruniean diplomat's house, which was huge and lovely. Emily and I set up tables with centerpieces, and the event was catered. It ended up being a success, with about 30 people attending. It was a long day though!

Yesterday, I missed breakfast at the hotel so I got a big French brunch at the cafe Le Banneton. I did some more shopping, and then I got a coffee and tartine (baguette with melted cheese and ham, mmm) at my favorite cafe Pricco. I also went to the National Museum, which was certainly interesting. Lots of pictures labeled like the ones below:




I met up with Melia, the Fulbright researcher and intern from last year at the park by the Mekong river. Some locals and foreigners play a game called Spike Ball. I had never heard of it but attempted to play. It's fun and doesn't require one to be too sporty.

I did a Happy Hour at Samsek Pakpasek, which is a cool restaurant/bar overlooking the river that has live music (see pic below). 




Today I met up with Melia at a hidden gem in Vientiane, which is down a random street away from downtown, called Kung's Cafe. I had sticky rice mango pancakes, which was delicious (sep lai!), and a blended coconut coffee, which was like a Coconut Starbucks frappucino (except cheap). We walked around a temple. On our way to Khou Din, a market, we watched some guys play a game that looked very similar to bocce ball on the street. Khou Din is much less foreigner friendly/touristy and much crazier than other markets, but has basically everything from clothes, to food, to household goods. 

The rest of the day, I plan to relax and probably get another massage or spa service before I begin my second to last week here!



Saturday, August 9, 2014

Busy Week!

It really has been a busy week. I am sad time is flying by so quickly, but really enjoying my days here. Last Sunday, Emily and I ran into one of the Fulbright ETAs (English Teaching Assistants) in the city. The new ETAs did a month-long language and culture class before attending an orientation on Monday and Tuesday. I went out to lunch with them on Monday at Lao Kitchen, a well-known Lao restaurant here.

Monday night I went to a Happy Hour with Colin Cotterill, who writes the Dr. Siri mystery books that take place in Laos (follow the link to a great NPR article).  The Happy Hour was at a hotel with an amazing river view of the Mekong, and Mr. Cotterill was an interesting guy who now lives in Thailand, but spent quite a bit of time living in Laos in the early 90s. I got to go to dinner with the author, his wife, and a small group of us from the Embassy, which was lovely.

Tuesday was the reception for my new boss, who arrived about a week after I did. It was at the Ambassador's residence, and allowed him to meet contacts important for his public affairs work. It was fun, especially since I helped a little bit to organize it.

This week, my other boss Ken had to leave to go to Burma, where John Kerry will be for a conference this weekend. I have been taking over some of his duties, which also kept me busy. Check out the Facebook page for our Embassy, which I've been posting on: https://www.facebook.com/pages/US-Embassy-Vientiane/82124194915?ref=br_tf.

I've also been going out to lunch with my Lao co-workers a lot, which has been a lot of fun. They are really great people and I've gotten to try a variety of food: pho, Luang Prabang noodles, Vietnamese spring rolls, and more.

Thursday I had to go to Thailand to do a visa run. I actually didn't really go into any cities, and we turned around right at the border so it only took a couple of hours. I did drive by the new Embassy, which is under construction. It is huge and really modern with glass and metal. Very different from the current Embassy which is currently right in the city.

Friday morning was the debate which I've been planning since I arrived. It went very well! I was so impressed with the students' abilities to debate in English, which is hard enough for American students to do! I will post pictures and a video soon on the Embassy Facebook.

Today I went to the Buddha Park. It is about 20 minutes outside of the city. Luckily my coworker and friend Christina drove, which made the trip nicer than it would have been on a public bus/tuk-tuk. It is not huge but we took some fun pics which will be online soon.

Tonight, I hung out with Melia, the new Fulbright scholar who was also an intern last year. We attempted to go to the night market but it got rained out. We may try again tomorrow, and I will probably do some kind of massage or spa treatment.


Saturday, August 2, 2014

Lao PDR (please, don't rush)

The weeks are flying by here, and I really don't want to leave already. I am really enjoying both my work and living in Vientiane. This week I wore my Lao skirt (sin), and got lots of compliments. I prepared for an English language debate and reception for my new boss that will be happening this week. I am trying to plan lots of events for students who are interested in learning English, but I only have a month left already! It is going to be jam packed full of things to do. I want to host a pizza party, a movie night, and give a presentation on college life in the United States (several times for different audiences).





One of my coworkers, Christina, is a young woman around my age. She invited me to go out to lunch with her. It was her boyfriend's coworkers at Beerlao, and we went to eat pizza and get ice cream at Swensen's. It was really fun, and all of the people I met were very smart with excellent English, and really fun people too. It was weird to be in Swensen's. I used to go to the Swensen's by my house when I was little, but I assumed all Swensen's had closed down a long time ago. Not so in Asia! They even have smiley face sundaes with the upside down cones that I remember from my youth.

Another day this week, we tried khao piak, which is a Lao noodle soup. The noodles were delicious, and also in the soup was pork and the coagulated pig's blood, familiar to me from China. Christina and I also had coconut juice, which I love (lots of sugar though). My boss, Matt, put a lot of chili in his soup and was tearing and sweating, which was quite amusing. I put just the tiniest amount of chili in and it was still pretty spicy.


I have also been getting Lao style iced coffee in the afternoon, which involves lots of ice, condensed milk, and sugar. One of mine came in a bag this week (no cup, just a plastic bag of ice inside a paper bag inside a plastic bag).



Tomorrow, there is a Happy Hour in the city with Colin Cotterill. He is the author of the Dr. Siri books, which are mysteries that take place in Laos. I haven't read them yet but I purchased one of the books at the local bookstore. They are also available on Phoenix Library as ebooks, if anyone is interested (OpenDrive).

The past couple of days I've done some shopping. There is a large market called the Morning Market, a night market by the river, and also plenty of boutique/handicraft shops. I loved Camacrafts/Mulberries, which features handicrafts made by organizations that help disadvantaged people in Laos. Mulberries makes these incredible, gorgeous silk products, and Camacrafts has lots of embroidery and batik. There is so much wonderful fabric and textiles here in Vientiane, and also so many great handicrafts.

Anyways, I am really enjoying my time here. My work is really fun, and my coworkers are great. The days fly by. I am really digging Vientiane as a city. It is small. Whenever I hang out with my Lao coworkers, they always run into someone they know. But it is easy to get around, with tons of choices of restaurant, cafe, coffee shop, and boutique shop. There are definitely more bakery choices here than in Phoenix, which is a much bigger city. And more independent coffee shops.

I am really amazed at the English level. In China, I struggled a lot more to interact with people daily who did not speak English. Even in Bangkok, it seems like less people speak English. I don't know what it is, but for such a small city I am impressed.


Sunday, July 27, 2014

Sinh Skirt

Yesterday, Christina, Emily and I went Lao skirt shopping. This skirts are called sinhs, and the women here wear them in every day life. The Lao women I work with at the Embassy wear them to work, for example. Christina is my young co-worker, and she offered to take Emily and I to Talat Sao to go shopping for the skirts.

Talat Sao is also known as the Morning Market. There is a more modern mall, and other older buildings that house stalls filled with all kinds of items, including fabric for sinhs. You pick out the fabric and then take it to a tailor, who makes it into a sinh for you. The fabrics include some kind of embroidery, either at the bottom edge or all over the skirt, and are generally made from different kinds of silk. The prices can range up to hundreds of dollars or more, depending on where the fabric is from and how intricate the embroidery is.

I decided on a fabric and then Christina took me to a tailor to get measured. I will have my sinh by Monday. Of course, I will post pictures as soon as I get it. I will be able to wear it to work or around every day here, so I am pretty excited.

Overall, textiles here are gorgeous. I do want to visit some of the shops, but they are closed on Sundays so I need to wait until another weekend.

There is a night market in Vientiane along the Mekong riverfront. I went last night, and they have some very cheap items. I got a purse with embroidered flowers for less than $2. A lot of the items are the same type of trinkets that you see everywhere, but I really like the souvenir items here. Textiles, handmade paper with dried flowers, carved wooden items, light and floaty dresses, and cloth purses and cases are all popular. I will continue to do some shopping while I am here, but my sinh will be my best souvenir, I think.

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Khop jai! (Thank you in Lao)

I am really enjoying both my internship and life in Vientiane so far. The work days are flying by! This week, I got to write some talking points for the Ambassador's remarks at a Lao Non Profit Association (NPA) roundtable. It was really cool to hear the Ambassador giving my short speech.

The roundtable also made me realize how glad I am to be in Laos. It is exciting to be in a developing country like Laos. All of the Lao NPAs present have only been around for a few years, and are doing some great work, but face many challenges of being a new organization in a developing country. Many of these groups have very few resources, but they are helping disabled UXO victims, women, and minorities. It's incredibly inspiring. For example, the Lao Disabled Women's Development Center helps women, many who are UXO victims, gain independence by teaching them skills, like how to make handicrafts.

Last night, I decide to try larb (or laap or lawp), which is a Lao specialty. It is minced meat (I tried beef) with some herbs and spices. Lao food has really great fresh herbs and spices. It was very different from anything I've eaten, but delicious. The woman who cooked my larb was nervous that I wouldn't like it, or maybe that it was too spicy, so she watched me try it. I told her it was very good!

For dinner tonight I wanted something small, so I got a tomato-basil-mozzarella sandwich at a pizza place (I will have to go back to try the pizza, they have a huge wood oven). The basil was absolutely incredible. I've never had such flavor in basil! The herbs here are just fantastic.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

One Week

I can’t believe I have been in Vientiane for one week already. Work will definitely keep me busy, and it has been a crazy week already because my boss, Pam, completed her tour here and left and my new boss, Matt, arrived just Thursday. I am already enjoying the advantages of being at a small embassy, because I get to be in a meeting with the Ambassador every week. At large embassies, an intern may see the Ambassador fairly rarely. I also get to have Lao language lessons as often as I like. I had my first lesson with my friendly ajang (teacher). She is used to FSOs who have gone through extensive language training, but was very patient with me.

For my first weekend, I was left to explore alone. The other intern, Emily, is in Luang Prabang this weekend. I will get to go to Luang Prabang and Savanakkhet in August with the Embassy. It’s good though, because I can get to know the city on my own. Yesterday I decided to go to Patouxay, which is the “Arc de Triomphe” of Laos. You can climb up to the top and get a nice view of Vientiane. I wasn’t able to sleep in yesterday so I did that around 8 am; it was pretty empty. I then decided to walk to Pha That Luang, a famous ancient gold stupa that has been rebuilt many times. It was definitely a bit of a walk (I calculated that I walked around 5 miles yesterday), but it was good for me to see a little bit more of the city. The stupa was very beautiful, and there were several temples nearby that I visited as well, including one that featured a reclining Buddha. There are many intricate designs in paint or gold on the temple buildings. I stopped on the walk back at True Coffee, which is like a Lao Starbucks. One thing I like about Vientiane is there are not the American chains like Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC (although there is Dairy Queen, which we had in Guiyang too oddly enough). There are so many coffee houses and bakeries and cafes (many French-themed); it is lovely (more than Phoenix despite Vientiane’s small size). It’s very easy to get around, as people speak English for the backpackers and other tourists; easier than Guiyang, certainly. Overall I think I will enjoy my time here.

Today I was able to sleep in, so I missed my free hotel breakfast. I went to a lovely French café and got my favorite latte yet, plus some baguette with butter and jam, and then got a Lao style massage. This was less expensive but more hardcore- the masseuse used her bodyweight, hands, and feet, and I got stretched all kinds of crazy ways. They do some yoga style stretches (except they do all the work for you while you lie down). Conveniently enough I have a large bathtub separate from the shower at my hotel, which is perfect for post-massage baths (and washing clothes, which I have started doing at my hotel until I find a cheap laundry service).

Saturday, July 19, 2014

COPE Visitor's Center and UXO




Yesterday, my supervisor Ken suggested I go to the COPEVisitor Center so that I would better understand the UXO problem in Laos. This is the nice part about working at the Embassy; I got a car and driver to take me over there in the afternoon.

The COPE Center (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise,) provides prosthetics and rehabilitation services for UXO (unexploded ordinance) survivors and others with disabilities in Laos. The visitor’s center explains the history, has documentaries and videos, and shows what services COPE provides.

The picture below shows some of the facts about UXOs. Basically, during the Vietnam War, a large amount of Laos was bombed by the U.S., even though they were technically neutral during the war. Laos had a supply route on the Ho Chi Minh trail, and the U.S. dropped these cluster bombs all over Laos. When the planes couldn’t make their targets in Vietnam, they would drop the bombs over Laos.

The problem is that 30% of these bombs never exploded, and those unexploded ordnances (UXOs) are still all over the Laos countryside. This is a very poor country, and most people rely on agriculture to survive. Many people come across these UXOs and get injured or killed during farming. Others collect scrap metal, including children. Many of them are aware of the risk and still collect the scrap, because they are so poor. The picture below shows everyday items, such as cookware, made from parts of bombs.

This picture was drawn by a Lao refugee, and depicts the bombing during the war.

These prosthetics are both worn out COPE prosthetics and homemade prosthetics made by people with whatever materials they had (sometimes using metal from bombs).

Many Lao live in stilted huts like the one below. One way that Lao people accidentally set off UXOs is by simply starting a fire to cook, a daily activity. These huts require stairs, which many who have been disabled by UXOs struggled with.
 
COPE is the only organization in Laos that provides prosthetics and orthotics for free to anyone from anywhere in Laos. They also provide physical and occupational therapy, which are difficult to find in this country. One element I loved about COPE, coming from the solid waste industry, is that they recycle old prosthetics parts into new ones (prosthetics wear out, and children need new ones as they grow).
 

It is very sad, but an important issue to understand. I believe you can donate on their website, and I recommend visiting if you are ever in Laos.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Sabai dee!

Sabai dee means "hello" in Lao, and is the easiest phrase to learn. All the local people will greet you with this word, and many restaurants and hotels use "sabaidee" in their title.

I have had a whirlwind first two days at work. Yesterday was my first day at the Embassy. I work at a small post, which is nice because it is easier to learn my way around and get to know everyone. Emily, the other intern, showed me around and helped me get things like my badge and my local cell phone.

I work in Public Diplomacy, which is responsible for educational programs (like programs for Lao students to go to the US), English and cultural programs, and things like media and social media. Basically we want to interact with the local people to help promote Lao-USA relations. I met Ken, who is an officer in my section. I also met all of the local staff who work in our section. They all speak English and Lao, and I am really enjoying working with them. I share an office with KP, the Director of the Information Resource Center in Laos, which basically means he helps Lao students study in the US. I have already been asking the staff for tips on good places to get coffee, local foods to try, and other advice about living in Vientiane, and they have been incredibly helpful.

Yesterday I met the Ambassador, Daniel Clune, and the Deputy Chief of Mission. The great thing about being at a small embassy is that I will actually see the Ambassador quite a lot. For example, today I got to sit on an informal interview between the Ambassador and journalists. I learned a lot about the political situation in Laos and government here.

I promise to share more about Laos as I learn it. People tend not to know much about Laos, so I hope to help y'all learn and gain interest in Laos!

Because it is a small post, we are very busy. All of the officers here are very busy, so they are glad to have me, which means I am already getting started on projects. Some of the things I will do while I'm here are host a debate in English for Lao students, teach English (the Embassy offers free English classes), and help create some brochures for the programs we have. I will also help with some of the social media here.

I will do a lot of work here, but I am excited! Hopefully I will get to go on a trip with the Embassy as part of my work. I may get to go to Luang Prabang, which is the most famous and visited city here, full of temples and a historic UNESCO site.

I will update again soon! One last thing, if you ever come to Laos, the baguettes are AMAZING.

Sunday, July 13, 2014

Lazy Sunday

I decided to go on a short walk this afternoon. Downtown Vientiane, where I live, is very walkable. Many places are closed on Sunday, but it was nice to walk and see what's in my area, and start to be able to navigate. I find walking is the best way to really get to know a place, since when you take taxis you don't really pay attention to how you get somewhere.

I stopped for lunch and had pad thai, which was perfectly spicy and very good, and tried my first Beerlao, which is the ubiquitous local brew. It was very good (not as cheap as Chinese beer, but what is?).



I stopped in a few souvenir shops that were open. I already love the Lao souvenirs. The most common items seem to be textiles, such as woven scarves and skirts. They are beautiful. There are also lots of Buddha and elephant figures, small instruments such as flutes, and lovely fabric purses and wallets.

I could not pass up a massage, one of my favorite activities in Bali. I decided on a foot massage, since my feet and legs were sore from the plane rides. I went to a spa and for $10 USD, I got a one hour massage that included feet and legs (lying down and relaxing), head and face, shoulder, arm, and even some back such as a spinal twist (back crack!). It felt amazing after my plane ride. It reminded me of massages I got in Bali, that combined Thai massage methods of stretching and pressure points with some Swedish massage type of rubbing.

A little worried I am going to blow my whole budget on massages, but I thought about it, and even if I get a massage once a week while I'm here, that's $70 US, which would only get me one 1-hour massage in America. So once a week massages seem reasonable to me!

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Vientiane

View from my room

I made it to Vientiane! Yesterday, it took me about 5 hours to get from Bangkok to Vientiane via 2 other Lao cities. I arrived at the domestic terminal and waited. The other intern, Emily, was supposed to meet me at the airport, but I didn't see any sign of her. Then I realized she probably assumed I was arriving at the international terminal, so I headed over there and found her and our driver!

It was almost freaky meeting Emily. We are both grad students (not undergrads, as many State interns are). We both taught English in China for a year. We both graduate in December. I'm sure there are more crazy similarities.

We are both living at the City Inn, which is a hotel more like a serviced apartment. My first room had a problem with air con, which with the humidity here is not good, so I moved to another larger room with lovely cool air con. I don't know if I will stay in this room, but it is huge (I think as big as my 2 bedroom apartment), with a large living area and 2 bathrooms, a tea kettle, microwave, 2 mini fridges, 2 bathrooms, and big windows.

Yesterday, Emily took me on a short walk around our hotel. She showed where the Embassy is, which is a few minutes walk. I will start work on Monday. Then we walked through the night market, and eventually found  a place to grab some dinner. I got pad thai, which was a perfect small dinner.  I took the most satisfying shower of my life before falling into a deep sleep.

Breakfast here is included and includes an assortment of fruit (I love the papaya here), hot dishes, and bread. Because of the French influence here, there is a lot of good bread, like croissants and baguettes.

I like Vientiane so far! It is extremely humid, which I am obviously not used to. I don't know how the Lao people don't look sweaty all the time. It seems fairly easy to walk around. It is a quiet city (especially compared to Guiyang, where I lived in China, the loudest place I've ever been). This morning I walked down the street and it was very quiet and chill. Many places were closed (it's Sunday here).

There are a lot of foreigners here (also, compared to China where I got stared at a lot). Also a lot of English. Lots of food and massage/spa places. Some French writing. It is very green with lots of trees. As I flew into the country, I noticed a lot of rice paddies, short buildings, and short trees. This is not a huge city with tall buildings, and is still being developed.

I am excited to start work tomorrow and meet my co-workers. It is nice to have Emily to help me, and someone to tour around with who has already been here for 6 weeks.

Friday, July 11, 2014

Thankfully

They've labeled me with a sticker so I can't get lost.


Bangkok (really almost there)

After a while, when you've taken enough flights in a row, you feel like you will never stop being on an airplane.

Suggestion: We need more clocks in airports. It is very difficult to figure out what time it is anywhere. Thank goodness for my smartphone world clock.


Taipei (almost there! kind of!)

Well of course travel can never be without delays and worries; that wouldn't be very exciting, now would it! I got to LAX a few minutes early, but luggage took forever to come out, and then I had to schlep over to the international terminal. I get there and it takes forever before they let me go. Apparently, my Lao Air boarding passes wouldn't print. They were literally closing the check-in area and all the employees were heading out. However, I had no time for an "All By Myself" lip-sync. I had to get through security. I made it with just enough time to head to the bathroom before I boarded.

The flight itself wasn't too bad; I may have even gotten 2-3 hours of sleep! We had an empty seat in our row, and the lady next to me was a lovely older woman who was going on an adventure travel tour to Indonesia, including Bali! So I had to go on for a while about how much I love Bali. She loves travel, and told me about how before her husband died, they would go travel to a small place in the south of France or Italy, rent a house, and spend a couple of weeks. That is exactly the style of travel I aspire to, really.

I also watched Argo. Maybe not the best movie to watch when you are going to work at an American embassy? But it was a really good movie that I hadn't seen yet.

Luckily, when I got to Taipei, there was an easy transfer over to my gate for my Bangkok flight. One last transfer to Lao Air (I'll have to grab a boarding pass somewhere) and then I will be there!

Thursday, July 10, 2014

The Journey Begins

So tonight I head to Laos. Now, the top three lines here the journey there, the bottom three the journey back, and it looks a little crazy:
I also have to get to LAX. My Southwest flight to LA has been delayed, and won't arrive until 12:05 am. My flight to Taipei doesn't leave until 1:55, but if this flight is delayed any more that will cut things a little too close for comfort.

Luckily I am a pretty expert packer at this point, between living in China for a year, studying abroad in HK, and flying cross-country for college. I even have a fair amount of room left for souvenirs (like Kate and Siggy's wedding present, since I will miss their wedding). My Nook is loaded up with books, and my devices are charged since apparently there is a new rule at security checkpoints that may require you to turn on your devices (you know, make sure there are no bombs inside or anything).

I am antsy, especially with the flight delay. This is my longest journey yet (something around 30 hours). The other intern at the Embassy in Laos, Emily, will meet me at the airport. I will be living at the City Inn Hotel in Vientiane. Only a few minutes walk to work at the Embassy every day! I am pretty excited. I will update more from the road!