Sinh Skirt

Yesterday, Christina, Emily and I went Lao skirt shopping. This skirts are called sinhs, and the women here wear them in every day life. The Lao women I work with at the Embassy wear them to work, for example. Christina is my young co-worker, and she offered to take Emily and I to Talat Sao to go shopping for the skirts.

Talat Sao is also known as the Morning Market. There is a more modern mall, and other older buildings that house stalls filled with all kinds of items, including fabric for sinhs. You pick out the fabric and then take it to a tailor, who makes it into a sinh for you. The fabrics include some kind of embroidery, either at the bottom edge or all over the skirt, and are generally made from different kinds of silk. The prices can range up to hundreds of dollars or more, depending on where the fabric is from and how intricate the embroidery is.

I decided on a fabric and then Christina took me to a tailor to get measured. I will have my sinh by Monday. Of course, I will post pictures as soon as I get it. I will be able to wear it to work or around every day here, so I am pretty excited.

Overall, textiles here are gorgeous. I do want to visit some of the shops, but they are closed on Sundays so I need to wait until another weekend.

There is a night market in Vientiane along the Mekong riverfront. I went last night, and they have some very cheap items. I got a purse with embroidered flowers for less than $2. A lot of the items are the same type of trinkets that you see everywhere, but I really like the souvenir items here. Textiles, handmade paper with dried flowers, carved wooden items, light and floaty dresses, and cloth purses and cases are all popular. I will continue to do some shopping while I am here, but my sinh will be my best souvenir, I think.

Khop jai! (Thank you in Lao)

I am really enjoying both my internship and life in Vientiane so far. The work days are flying by! This week, I got to write some talking points for the Ambassador's remarks at a Lao Non Profit Association (NPA) roundtable. It was really cool to hear the Ambassador giving my short speech.

The roundtable also made me realize how glad I am to be in Laos. It is exciting to be in a developing country like Laos. All of the Lao NPAs present have only been around for a few years, and are doing some great work, but face many challenges of being a new organization in a developing country. Many of these groups have very few resources, but they are helping disabled UXO victims, women, and minorities. It's incredibly inspiring. For example, the Lao Disabled Women's Development Center helps women, many who are UXO victims, gain independence by teaching them skills, like how to make handicrafts.

Last night, I decide to try larb (or laap or lawp), which is a Lao specialty. It is minced meat (I tried beef) with some herbs and spices. Lao food has really great fresh herbs and spices. It was very different from anything I've eaten, but delicious. The woman who cooked my larb was nervous that I wouldn't like it, or maybe that it was too spicy, so she watched me try it. I told her it was very good!

For dinner tonight I wanted something small, so I got a tomato-basil-mozzarella sandwich at a pizza place (I will have to go back to try the pizza, they have a huge wood oven). The basil was absolutely incredible. I've never had such flavor in basil! The herbs here are just fantastic.

One Week

I can’t believe I have been in Vientiane for one week already. Work will definitely keep me busy, and it has been a crazy week already because my boss, Pam, completed her tour here and left and my new boss, Matt, arrived just Thursday. I am already enjoying the advantages of being at a small embassy, because I get to be in a meeting with the Ambassador every week. At large embassies, an intern may see the Ambassador fairly rarely. I also get to have Lao language lessons as often as I like. I had my first lesson with my friendly ajang (teacher). She is used to FSOs who have gone through extensive language training, but was very patient with me.

For my first weekend, I was left to explore alone. The other intern, Emily, is in Luang Prabang this weekend. I will get to go to Luang Prabang and Savanakkhet in August with the Embassy. It’s good though, because I can get to know the city on my own. Yesterday I decided to go to Patouxay, which is the “Arc de Triomphe” of Laos. You can climb up to the top and get a nice view of Vientiane. I wasn’t able to sleep in yesterday so I did that around 8 am; it was pretty empty. I then decided to walk to Pha That Luang, a famous ancient gold stupa that has been rebuilt many times. It was definitely a bit of a walk (I calculated that I walked around 5 miles yesterday), but it was good for me to see a little bit more of the city. The stupa was very beautiful, and there were several temples nearby that I visited as well, including one that featured a reclining Buddha. There are many intricate designs in paint or gold on the temple buildings. I stopped on the walk back at True Coffee, which is like a Lao Starbucks. One thing I like about Vientiane is there are not the American chains like Starbucks, McDonalds, KFC (although there is Dairy Queen, which we had in Guiyang too oddly enough). There are so many coffee houses and bakeries and cafes (many French-themed); it is lovely (more than Phoenix despite Vientiane’s small size). It’s very easy to get around, as people speak English for the backpackers and other tourists; easier than Guiyang, certainly. Overall I think I will enjoy my time here.

Today I was able to sleep in, so I missed my free hotel breakfast. I went to a lovely French café and got my favorite latte yet, plus some baguette with butter and jam, and then got a Lao style massage. This was less expensive but more hardcore- the masseuse used her bodyweight, hands, and feet, and I got stretched all kinds of crazy ways. They do some yoga style stretches (except they do all the work for you while you lie down). Conveniently enough I have a large bathtub separate from the shower at my hotel, which is perfect for post-massage baths (and washing clothes, which I have started doing at my hotel until I find a cheap laundry service).

COPE Visitor's Center and UXO

Yesterday, my supervisor Ken suggested I go to the COPEVisitor Center so that I would better understand the UXO problem in Laos. This is the nice part about working at the Embassy; I got a car and driver to take me over there in the afternoon.

The COPE Center (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise,) provides prosthetics and rehabilitation services for UXO (unexploded ordinance) survivors and others with disabilities in Laos. The visitor’s center explains the history, has documentaries and videos, and shows what services COPE provides.

The picture below shows some of the facts about UXOs. Basically, during the Vietnam War, a large amount of Laos was bombed by the U.S., even though they were technically neutral during the war. Laos had a supply route on the Ho Chi Minh trail, and the U.S. dropped these cluster bombs all over Laos. When the planes couldn’t make their targets in Vietnam, they would drop the bombs over Laos.

The problem is that 30% of these bombs never exploded, and those unexploded ordnances (UXOs) are still all over the Laos countryside. This is a very poor country, and most people rely on agriculture to survive. Many people come across these UXOs and get injured or killed during farming. Others collect scrap metal, including children. Many of them are aware of the risk and still collect the scrap, because they are so poor. The picture below shows everyday items, such as cookware, made from parts of bombs.

This picture was drawn by a Lao refugee, and depicts the bombing during the war.

These prosthetics are both worn out COPE prosthetics and homemade prosthetics made by people with whatever materials they had (sometimes using metal from bombs).

Many Lao live in stilted huts like the one below. One way that Lao people accidentally set off UXOs is by simply starting a fire to cook, a daily activity. These huts require stairs, which many who have been disabled by UXOs struggled with.

 

COPE is the only organization in Laos that provides prosthetics and orthotics for free to anyone from anywhere in Laos. They also provide physical and occupational therapy, which are difficult to find in this country. One element I loved about COPE, coming from the solid waste industry, is that they recycle old prosthetics parts into new ones (prosthetics wear out, and children need new ones as they grow).

 

It is very sad, but an important issue to understand. I believe you can donate on their website, and I recommend visiting if you are ever in Laos.

Sabai dee!

Sabai dee means "hello" in Lao, and is the easiest phrase to learn. All the local people will greet you with this word, and many restaurants and hotels use "sabaidee" in their title.

I have had a whirlwind first two days at work. Yesterday was my first day at the Embassy. I work at a small post, which is nice because it is easier to learn my way around and get to know everyone. Emily, the other intern, showed me around and helped me get things like my badge and my local cell phone.

I work in Public Diplomacy, which is responsible for educational programs (like programs for Lao students to go to the US), English and cultural programs, and things like media and social media. Basically we want to interact with the local people to help promote Lao-USA relations. I met Ken, who is an officer in my section. I also met all of the local staff who work in our section. They all speak English and Lao, and I am really enjoying working with them. I share an office with KP, the Director of the Information Resource Center in Laos, which basically means he helps Lao students study in the US. I have already been asking the staff for tips on good places to get coffee, local foods to try, and other advice about living in Vientiane, and they have been incredibly helpful.

Yesterday I met the Ambassador, Daniel Clune, and the Deputy Chief of Mission. The great thing about being at a small embassy is that I will actually see the Ambassador quite a lot. For example, today I got to sit on an informal interview between the Ambassador and journalists. I learned a lot about the political situation in Laos and government here.

I promise to share more about Laos as I learn it. People tend not to know much about Laos, so I hope to help y'all learn and gain interest in Laos!

Because it is a small post, we are very busy. All of the officers here are very busy, so they are glad to have me, which means I am already getting started on projects. Some of the things I will do while I'm here are host a debate in English for Lao students, teach English (the Embassy offers free English classes), and help create some brochures for the programs we have. I will also help with some of the social media here.

I will do a lot of work here, but I am excited! Hopefully I will get to go on a trip with the Embassy as part of my work. I may get to go to Luang Prabang, which is the most famous and visited city here, full of temples and a historic UNESCO site.

I will update again soon! One last thing, if you ever come to Laos, the baguettes are AMAZING.

Lazy Sunday

I decided to go on a short walk this afternoon. Downtown Vientiane, where I live, is very walkable. Many places are closed on Sunday, but it was nice to walk and see what's in my area, and start to be able to navigate. I find walking is the best way to really get to know a place, since when you take taxis you don't really pay attention to how you get somewhere.

I stopped for lunch and had pad thai, which was perfectly spicy and very good, and tried my first Beerlao, which is the ubiquitous local brew. It was very good (not as cheap as Chinese beer, but what is?).

I stopped in a few souvenir shops that were open. I already love the Lao souvenirs. The most common items seem to be textiles, such as woven scarves and skirts. They are beautiful. There are also lots of Buddha and elephant figures, small instruments such as flutes, and lovely fabric purses and wallets.

I could not pass up a massage, one of my favorite activities in Bali. I decided on a foot massage, since my feet and legs were sore from the plane rides. I went to a spa and for $10 USD, I got a one hour massage that included feet and legs (lying down and relaxing), head and face, shoulder, arm, and even some back such as a spinal twist (back crack!). It felt amazing after my plane ride. It reminded me of massages I got in Bali, that combined Thai massage methods of stretching and pressure points with some Swedish massage type of rubbing.

A little worried I am going to blow my whole budget on massages, but I thought about it, and even if I get a massage once a week while I'm here, that's $70 US, which would only get me one 1-hour massage in America. So once a week massages seem reasonable to me!

Vientiane

View from my room

I made it to Vientiane! Yesterday, it took me about 5 hours to get from Bangkok to Vientiane via 2 other Lao cities. I arrived at the domestic terminal and waited. The other intern, Emily, was supposed to meet me at the airport, but I didn't see any sign of her. Then I realized she probably assumed I was arriving at the international terminal, so I headed over there and found her and our driver!

It was almost freaky meeting Emily. We are both grad students (not undergrads, as many State interns are). We both taught English in China for a year. We both graduate in December. I'm sure there are more crazy similarities.

We are both living at the City Inn, which is a hotel more like a serviced apartment. My first room had a problem with air con, which with the humidity here is not good, so I moved to another larger room with lovely cool air con. I don't know if I will stay in this room, but it is huge (I think as big as my 2 bedroom apartment), with a large living area and 2 bathrooms, a tea kettle, microwave, 2 mini fridges, 2 bathrooms, and big windows.

Yesterday, Emily took me on a short walk around our hotel. She showed where the Embassy is, which is a few minutes walk. I will start work on Monday. Then we walked through the night market, and eventually found  a place to grab some dinner. I got pad thai, which was a perfect small dinner.  I took the most satisfying shower of my life before falling into a deep sleep.

Breakfast here is included and includes an assortment of fruit (I love the papaya here), hot dishes, and bread. Because of the French influence here, there is a lot of good bread, like croissants and baguettes.

I like Vientiane so far! It is extremely humid, which I am obviously not used to. I don't know how the Lao people don't look sweaty all the time. It seems fairly easy to walk around. It is a quiet city (especially compared to Guiyang, where I lived in China, the loudest place I've ever been). This morning I walked down the street and it was very quiet and chill. Many places were closed (it's Sunday here).

There are a lot of foreigners here (also, compared to China where I got stared at a lot). Also a lot of English. Lots of food and massage/spa places. Some French writing. It is very green with lots of trees. As I flew into the country, I noticed a lot of rice paddies, short buildings, and short trees. This is not a huge city with tall buildings, and is still being developed.

I am excited to start work tomorrow and meet my co-workers. It is nice to have Emily to help me, and someone to tour around with who has already been here for 6 weeks.

Thankfully

They've labeled me with a sticker so I can't get lost.

Bangkok (really almost there)

After a while, when you've taken enough flights in a row, you feel like you will never stop being on an airplane.

Suggestion: We need more clocks in airports. It is very difficult to figure out what time it is anywhere. Thank goodness for my smartphone world clock.

Taipei (almost there! kind of!)

Well of course travel can never be without delays and worries; that wouldn't be very exciting, now would it! I got to LAX a few minutes early, but luggage took forever to come out, and then I had to schlep over to the international terminal. I get there and it takes forever before they let me go. Apparently, my Lao Air boarding passes wouldn't print. They were literally closing the check-in area and all the employees were heading out. However, I had no time for an "All By Myself" lip-sync. I had to get through security. I made it with just enough time to head to the bathroom before I boarded.

The flight itself wasn't too bad; I may have even gotten 2-3 hours of sleep! We had an empty seat in our row, and the lady next to me was a lovely older woman who was going on an adventure travel tour to Indonesia, including Bali! So I had to go on for a while about how much I love Bali. She loves travel, and told me about how before her husband died, they would go travel to a small place in the south of France or Italy, rent a house, and spend a couple of weeks. That is exactly the style of travel I aspire to, really.

I also watched Argo. Maybe not the best movie to watch when you are going to work at an American embassy? But it was a really good movie that I hadn't seen yet.

Luckily, when I got to Taipei, there was an easy transfer over to my gate for my Bangkok flight. One last transfer to Lao Air (I'll have to grab a boarding pass somewhere) and then I will be there!

The Journey Begins

So tonight I head to Laos. Now, the top three lines here the journey there, the bottom three the journey back, and it looks a little crazy:

I also have to get to LAX. My Southwest flight to LA has been delayed, and won't arrive until 12:05 am. My flight to Taipei doesn't leave until 1:55, but if this flight is delayed any more that will cut things a little too close for comfort.

Luckily I am a pretty expert packer at this point, between living in China for a year, studying abroad in HK, and flying cross-country for college. I even have a fair amount of room left for souvenirs (like Kate and Siggy's wedding present, since I will miss their wedding). My Nook is loaded up with books, and my devices are charged since apparently there is a new rule at security checkpoints that may require you to turn on your devices (you know, make sure there are no bombs inside or anything).

I am antsy, especially with the flight delay. This is my longest journey yet (something around 30 hours). The other intern at the Embassy in Laos, Emily, will meet me at the airport. I will be living at the City Inn Hotel in Vientiane. Only a few minutes walk to work at the Embassy every day! I am pretty excited. I will update more from the road!